SENKU-SHA [TRAILBLAZER] – A Tribute to the First Woman on the Eiger's Japanese Direttissima

09/25

@Takio Kato

Takio Kato

Julia Rau

In 1969, a Japanese climbing team made history by opening the most direct route up the Eiger north face. It was one of the toughest climbs of its time. Among the team of six, was Michiko Imai, who became the first woman to summit the Eiger via this line. At a time when women in Switzerland still couldn’t vote, her role on that wall was quietly radical – like a real trailblazer.

Route: JAPANESE DIRETTISSIMA​ 

First ascent: 15 July –15 August 1969 

Rope team: Takio and Yasuo Kato, Satoru Nigishi, Amano Hirofumi, Susumu Kubo, Michiko Imai 

Grade: 6 A2. 1800m. 

In July 1969, a Japanese expedition team completed the first ascent of the most direct route up the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland: The so-called Japanese Direttissima. Known for its extreme exposure and technical difficulty, the Eiger had long challenged the world’s best climbers. This new line demanded absolute precision, endurance, and commitment. 

Among the six climbers was Michiko Imai, who became the first woman to summit the Eiger via this route. At a time when women in Switzerland still didn’t have the right to vote, Michiko’s role on that wall was nothing short of revolutionary. She didn’t seek the spotlight, but her strength and quiet defiance made the medical doctor a pioneer in every sense. 

More than five decades later, we invited Michiko back to the Eiger. At 83, she stood once again in the middle of the face that shaped her story – sharing stories, reflections, and the spirit of an expedition that continues to inspire. Among those deeply moved by her achievement was Nigel Cabourn, whose fascination with her story helped shape this collection.  

Meet the woman who inspired it all

“The 1969 Japanese Direttissima expedition is a story I’ve researched for many years. This makes the collection truly special and an authentic tribute to the remarkable achievement of the climbing team and its deep connection to the Eiger.”

Nigel CabournFASHION DESIGNER

As part of the project, we recreated one of the most iconic images from the 1969 first ascent: Michiko suspended on a rope high on the Eiger’s north face. This time, the moment is reimagined with Japanese athlete Yuka Kobayashi, wearing the Nigel Cabourn collection.  

The result is a powerful fusion of past and present, honoring a historic ascent while showcasing contemporary design through the eyes of one of Britain’s most respected designers. 

Explore the Nigel Cabourn + Mammut collection Learn more about this collab

“I became fascinated by the Eiger’s history, especially the unique 1969 Japanese expedition led in part by a woman, Michiko Imai. Their expedition approach and the kit they were using, often homemade or from the farming community back in Japan."

Paul CosgroveCHIEF PRODUCT OFFICER, MAMMUT